The fusion of AI and neuroscience is advancing the craft of perfumery

Beauty companies are embracing neuroscent research and technology to discern the components that appeal to customers

The ancient art of perfume-making, originating from Greece, is expanding beyond conventional approaches as modern perfumers delve into the realm of AI. Instead of depending solely on their sense of smell, perfumers are now integrating AI into their craft.

In contemporary times, perfumes can be meticulously created to evoke emotional responses by incorporating elements known as “neuroscents” — fragrances validated through biometric measures to elicit various positive feelings such as serenity, euphoria, or relaxation.

Hugo Ferreira, a researcher at the Institute of Biophysics and Biomedical Engineering in Lisbon, is actively involved in charting brain activity and reactions to perfumes. This effort aims to construct a thorough database of neuroscents. Expressing his fascination for the sense of smell, he notes, “While sight and hearing enable you to visualize the face of a loved one or your favorite melody, it’s challenging to conjure a scent, even though it can evoke a flood of emotions and memories.

Ferreira elucidates that this phenomenon is a result of the intricate structure of the olfactory system. Signals from scent receptors travel through the olfactory bulb to different areas of the brain, each responsible for tasks such as memory, thirst, and stress responses. “Olfaction emerges as the most versatile sense, with a multitude of unique receptors. It’s estimated that there are about 400 different gene families associated with olfactory receptors. These diverse connections may, among other things, contribute to our ability to ‘detect fear’ or recognize the scent of victory.

Let artists unleash their creativity; there’s no need for computers to unveil what our noses can already discern. – Katie Puckrik, broadcaster, and perfume writer

Several beauty brands have committed significant resources to neuroscent research and technology, recognizing the clear potential for crafting fragrances that authentically enhance consumers’ moods. L’Oréal, for example, has partnered with the neurotechnology firm Emotiv to provide a distinctive scent selection “experience.” In 2023, patrons at designated Yves Saint Laurent stores worldwide have employed a headset to generate an electroencephalogram (EEG) for identifying scents that resonate with them. Preliminary results suggest that 95% of customers using the headset discovered their perfect perfume.

Within the realms of fashion and fragrance, Puig undertook comprehensive research by gathering 45 million brain readings from men aged 18-35 to elevate the cologne Phantom by Paco Rabanne. Their discoveries resulted in the incorporation of lavender and lemon into the formula. Similarly, Givenchy’s Irresistible eau de parfum, the newest addition to the enduringly popular Very Irresistible range, integrates a rose extract named “anti-morose,” a selection influenced by biometric research.

While mass-market fragrances can only leverage this technology to a limited extent—given the necessity for scents sold worldwide to cater to a diverse audience—specialized perfumers are formulating highly personalized formulas. For instance, the South Korean company Amorepacific produces personalized bath bombs using real-time biodata gathered by a “bathbot,” although, unfortunately, these are not available internationally. Conversely, EveryHuman, an algorithm-driven perfumery based in the Netherlands, can craft unique scents within minutes through a questionnaire and algorithms. Recently, the company expanded into room fragrances, and visitors to the Moooi furniture store in London can witness their Willy Wonka-esque machine in operation.

Anahita Mekanik, co-founder of EveryHuman and a veteran in the fragrance industry with two decades of experience in scent development and marketing, articulates, “My fascination with algorithmic perfumery stems from its ability to empower individuals to interact directly with scents. As a fragrance developer, what captivated me the most was that for every scent introduced, thousands of variations were generated and discarded.

She proposes, “Allow the artists to work their magic. Why depend on a computer to unveil what our sense of smell already detects? The unexpected joy of discovering a new cherished fragrance is a rare and precious moment that we should allow ourselves.

Regarding Ferreira, he discovers the enchantment within the very essence of scent. “While we are accustomed to the use of fragrances in cosmetics and aromatherapy, which positively affect our sense of well-being, these applications may only be scratching the surface of the therapeutic potential of odorant molecules. The exploration of how scent can be utilized for health and various purposes is an endeavor spanning many lifetimes.